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Most dents never involve a collision at all. Someone’s door swings wide next to you in a lot, a runaway cart finds your fender, a limb comes down in a storm. The car drives fine — there’s just a dent in the side of it. What happens from here hinges on a single question: did the paint survive?
If the finish is unbroken and the metal hasn’t been stretched or sharply creased, the dent can often be worked back out from behind with the factory paint left completely alone — that’s paintless dent removal, and it’s the better result any time it’s an option. When the paint has cracked, the metal is creased, or the damage crosses a body line, the panel needs conventional repair instead: reshaping, filling, priming and refinishing. This page covers that second path.
A dent like this — broad, shallow, the paint still whole — is often a paintless candidate. Put a sharp crease through the same panel and it wouldn’t be.
Whichever way it goes, the assessment comes first and it’s free. We read the paint, the shape of the damage, what the panel is made of and what sits behind it, then tell you which repair your vehicle actually needs and what it’ll run — before anything begins. That’s part of how we follow OEM repair standards.
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Free local towing is available to qualified customers based on location — just mention it when you open your case. Rental vehicles are available too, so you are not left sorting out a ride while your vehicle is with us.
Start Your RepairEvery finished dent repair looks the same on day one — level metal, matched colour. Whether it’s still invisible three winters later, or starting to telegraph, is decided by choices that are already sealed under the paint before you pick the car up:
The questions that come up most about dents, dings and creases. If yours isn’t here, call the shop at (614) 471-0505 — we’re glad to walk you through it.
Paintless dent removal works the metal back into shape from behind the panel and leaves the factory finish untouched. Conventional dent repair steps in when that isn’t possible — the paint has cracked, the metal is creased or stretched, or there’s no access from behind. It means reshaping, a thin skim of filler, primer and refinishing. PDR is quicker, cheaper and keeps the original paint, so it’s always the first thing we check for.
No. Four things usually rule it out: cracked or chipped paint, a sharp crease instead of a smooth depression, metal that’s been stretched thin, and damage sitting on a body line or somewhere with no reach from behind. The panel material matters too — aluminium holds its shape differently than steel and doesn’t always spring back. We check all of it during the assessment rather than promising a result up front.
On a conventional dent repair, almost certainly — and that’s normal, correct practice, not a shortcut. Filler exists to level the last fraction of a millimetre once the metal has been worked back into shape. What’s not acceptable is using it in place of reshaping the panel, or troweling it on thick to bridge damage. Applied thin over properly prepared and primed metal, it lasts as long as the panel does.
Not if the corrosion protection is put back. Any repair that reaches bare metal strips off the factory coating that was protecting it, so that layer has to be replaced before primer and paint go on. Rust surfacing at a repair a couple of years down the road almost always traces to that step being skipped — and by the time it shows, it’s already under the paint and spreading.
Not from the paint code alone. The code tells us the colour the day the car was built; sun, weather and time have moved it since. We match to the actual panel, spray test cards to confirm, and blend into the neighbouring panels so your eye never finds an edge. Metallics and pearls take the most care, because they shift with the viewing angle. There’s more on that on our paint repair page.
It does. A crease means the metal has been stretched and its shape locked in along that line, which is a different animal from a smooth depression where the panel is simply pushed in. Creases usually take paintless removal off the table and take longer to repair conventionally, because the metal has to be coaxed back gradually instead of popped out in one motion. A crease running across a body line is the toughest version of all.
Usually, but not always. Very large damage, badly stretched metal, damage across several body lines, or a panel the manufacturer says can’t be reshaped can each make replacement the right call — and sometimes the cheaper one, once the labour is tallied. We’ll show you the comparison rather than defaulting to whichever is easier on our end.
That depends on whether a claim gets filed. Cosmetic work paid out of pocket generally doesn’t appear; an insurance claim usually does. Either way, a documented repair reads far better to a future buyer than an undocumented one — and cosmetic damage left alone dents value too. If you’re weighing whether to file, we’ll walk you through the trade-off without pushing you one way or the other.
An appointment gets you in sooner, and you can request one online or send a photo of the dent from your phone — often that’s enough for us to tell you whether it’s a paintless candidate before you ever drive over. If you’ve got hail damage spread across several panels, start with our hail damage page instead.
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